It's hard to pin down what Wildair is. On the surface it's a wine bar. But it doesn't feel like one. The food is the main attraction here, but somehow so is the wine. Then again, so is the atmosphere. And also the Donuts.
The more casual, less pretentious, sister restaurant to the already non-pretentious tasting-menu-only Contra — Wildair at it's core, is a restaurant that's about having a good time. It does what it wants, and in doing so, it gives the people what they want.